· Whatever your body type or shape never buy a suit that hangs off of your shoulders · If the shoulders don’t fit then your whole suit will look off and you will look like you are wearing your dads old suit – not to mention that it is glaringly obvious you way over estimated your size · The shoulders of the suit jacket should hug your body · If you are not wanting or able to have a suit tailored for you then a quick tip is when buying a suit off the rack go for a jacket that is one size smaller than what you think you need · Try the jacket –look in the mirror and observe if the shoulders of your suit lay flat · Take a look at the seam along the shoulder – does it look like the same length as your shoulder bone ? · Does the shoulder seam meet at the arm sleeve where your shoulder actually meets your arm ? · If that is a yes to both questions then you have a pretty good fit ! 怎样才是合适的西装？首先是肩膀 那么西装怎样才算是合身呢？因为不同的人有不同的体型，是否合身就要看当你穿着西装自然站立时，这套西装合不合适。这样说的话，不同的人会有不同的理解，清楚明白地说来，就是双手放在两侧直立。当你这样站立时，你的西装能紧贴你身体的线条。如果你抚平西装时，没有明显的拉扯和褶皱，我们认为这就是合身的西装。 我先来说说，很多人夸大了自己的身材（我可以看到很多小伙伴现在正在点头）。如果买的西装或者定做的西装最后大了的话，那么肯定会不合身。你看起来会很邋遢，没有任何吸引力。 我们再来说说肩宽。不管你是什么体型，不要买肩膀过宽的西装。失败的西装就是从这里开始的。肩宽不合适的西装，穿起来好像你穿的是你父亲的旧西装，很明显你夸大了你的身材。简单得说，西装外套的肩部应该紧贴你的身体。如果你不考虑定制西装的话，那么买小一号的西装。可能会更适合你。 当你照镜子时，西装的肩部应该自然平整，如果进一步观察，看看西装肩部的接缝是否和你的肩骨一样宽？看看肩部与袖子的接缝处是否与你肩膀和手臂的交界处吻合？如果这两个问题的答案是肯定的话，那么这套西装的肩宽是非常适合你。

Some other technical terms you should be aware of when discussing watches ACCURACY – is a term used for how well a watch tells time over a set period. For example, a watch that loses time over 1 year is more accurate than a watch that would lose time every day PRECISION – is the degree to which a watch measures time. For example, a watch that can measure time to the millisecond is more precise then a watch that measures time to the second WATERPROOF – is a watch that can be taken to depth in water and under pressure and not take in water. The suggestion is to any depth and pressure but this is not 100% the case WATER-RESISTANT - is a watch that can be taken into water but more so for a swim or the shower – not a deep dive These next two terms I find particularly note worthy CHRONOMETER – is a watch whose movement has been certified for accuracy by the Controle Official Suisse des Chronometres (COSC) in Switzerland CHRONOGRAPH – can be any watch with push button sand the capacity to measure elapsed time like a stopwatch Two terms that can be easily confused. Two more important terms on how a watch functions MECHANICAL – this is a watch powered by a main spring that is wound manually or automatically QUARTZ – power in a quartz watch comes from a battery not a spring and the time is regulated by the natural oscillations of a quartz crystal One final point for this post on watches – considering your wrist and watch choice If you tend to be a guy with quite hairy arms outside of shaving or waxing you will want to consider a watch that doesn’t have a bracelet style which is links of metallic material. With metallic links you will have the watch bracelet constantly pulling at your arm hair. Instead select a leather bracelet or non link type bracelet If you have fairly large wrists and forearms then you want to avoid small dial or face watches. Consider a dial size with the diameter of over 40 mm If you have a smaller wrist don’t get too big a watch and also consider a narrow dial shape rather than round. For a smaller wrist you want to look for a watch dial diameter of around 38 mm Nobody wants to over-accessorize. I suggest that your main accessory should be the most timeless of accessory, your watch (even if you generally use your phone to check the time ). On future posts I will explore more details about the watch and how to choose a watch wisely for your style. 讨论手表时，你要注意一些专用术语 精准度 - 手表在一定时间段内指示时间的精准性。如果一个手表，在一年的时间内只慢一分钟，那么肯定比一天慢一分钟的手表精准度要高 精确度 – 手表测量时间的深度。一个手表如果可以测量毫秒，一个手表只能测量秒，那么前者的精确度肯定比后者要高 防水性 – 手表可以带到深水区，能承压，不会进空气。手表可以承受任何深度和压力，但这不是绝对的 抗水性 – 手表可以放入水中，但是仅限于游泳或者洗澡 – 不能深度潜水 接下来的两个术语我觉得特别需要注意 精密手表 – 这种手表已经通过瑞士的瑞士钟表(COSC)官方认证 计时表 – 带按钮开关的手表，像秒表一样可以测量时间 下面来说说两个容易混淆的术语和有关手表功能的两个重要术语 机械表 – 这种手表是由一个主弹簧驱动的，它是手动或自动的 石英表 – 这种手表主要使用电池，而不是弹簧，时间是由石英晶体的自然振荡调节的 这篇文章的最后我想介绍一下如何根据手腕的大小来挑选手表 如果你手臂上的毛发比较多，就不要考虑金属材质的表带，因为这种表带很容易夹住手臂。皮质表带或类似于皮质表带的手表会比较合适。 如果你的手腕和前臂比较壮实，那么不要带小表盘的手表。可以考虑表盘直径超过40毫米的手表。 如果你的手腕较小，不要选太大的手表，而且你应该考虑窄表盘而不是圆表盘的手表。对于小手腕的人，应该选表盘直径约38毫米的手表 没人想装饰过度。我建议你的主要配件应该是最永恒的配件，你的手表(即使你经常用手机来看时间)。在以后的文章中，我将探索更多关于手表的细节，以及如何明智地选择你的风格。

If you are anything like me, you LOVE watches. The Watch is most likely the most prized male accessory next to perhaps a nice car. Another thing guys tend to like is technical details so let’s look at the anatomy of a watch. THE CASE – this is basically the body of the watch. Usually the case is made from one piece of metal and essentially protects the internal watch movement CASE MATERIALS – common case materials Stainless Steel – great for being lightweight and corrosion resistant and also an affordable material but unfortunately scratches easily Sterling silver – is a combination of approximately92.5% silver and &.5% another metal, often copper. Anyone who knows me knows I am big on the history of things and sterling silver has a history that can be traced back to Ancient Rome. Yellow Gold – often associated with being a luxury look with a nice shine but as I am sure we all know the purer the gold the softer the case and the more easily the casing can become dented Rose Gold – has been a trend the past year or so. The color is achieved by adding some copper to gold to make the red tint unfortunately overtime the red color will tarnish Titanium – About half the weight of steel and nearly twice as strong but that makes Titanium a bit difficult to work with and thus expensive to repair Ceramic – This is a high-tech modern alternative to metal cases. Ceramics can now be made to be highly durable, scratch resistance but yet lightweight and thin. An added bonus is that some people have metal allergies so the ceramic case makes wearing a quality watch more accessible Wood – though wood has been used for literally centuries for watch cases it has been making a bit of a style trend resurgence the past few years. A wood case can have a nice polish and gives any look a nice antique note THE DIAL – which is often called the FACE is where the displays are for time and perhaps other dials and the date THE CRYSTAL – is what covers and protects the dial. The crystal is most commonly made of glass, plastic or synthetic sapphire THE BEZEL –this is the ring that actually holds the crystal in place. You will find some bezels rotate and are intended for grip. This is used to be able to mark elapsed time THE PUSHERS – the name says it all – they are the buttons used to start and stop the chronograph functions- not all watches have these THE CROWN – most people are familiar with this as being the knob that you turn classically to wind the mainspring of your watch or change the the settings. On most watches it is found at the 3 o’clock position. You might have also heard this part of the watch referred to as the STERN THE BATONS – many watches don’t have actual marking the hours instead they have rectangular bars or circles that often illuminate, these are called Batons SUBDIALS – some watches have on the dial circles that are used to measure varying elapsed time 男士手表 如果你也喜欢手表，那么就和我一样！对于男性而言，一辆好车是男人最值得炫耀的配备了，手表仅次于豪车。男人多半都是技术控，所以我们一起来解剖一下手表吧。 表壳 – 手表的主体部分。通常是由金属制成的，主要是保护手表内部结构。 常见的表壳材质： 不锈钢 - 重量轻，耐腐蚀，而且价格适中，缺点是很容易刮花。 纯银 - 约92.5%的银加上5%其它金属，通常是铜。认识我的人都知道，我对事物的历史很了解，而纯银的历史可以追溯到古罗马时期。 黄金 – 黄金通常是奢华的代表，但是我们都知道，纯金质地比较柔软，外壳容易凹陷。 玫瑰金 – 去年的流行趋势。在黄金中加入一些铜就制造成了玫瑰金的红色，但是这种红色会慢慢失去光泽。 钛 – 重量约为不锈钢的一半，强度几乎是钢的两倍，但钛修起来比较贵。 陶瓷 – 高科材质，可以替代金属表壳。陶瓷耐用、耐刮，又轻又薄。还有一个优点，有些人对金属过敏，而陶瓷质感好，不易过敏。 树脂 - 树脂外壳的好处是它完全防水，耐极端气候 – 在市场上你经常可以看到这种类型的手表。 木质 - 尽管木材已经被用了几个世纪，过去的几年已经有了复兴的趋势。木质表壳如果抛光做得好，手表看上去会有一种复古感。 表盘 - 通常被称为“盘脸”，用来显示时间，也可以用来显示日期。 水晶面 – 用于覆盖和保护表盘。水晶面通常由玻璃、塑料或人造蓝宝石制成 圈口 - 环形，实际上是用来固定水晶面的。有些圈口是旋转的。 推进器 - 这个名字说明了一切 - 它是用来启动和关闭计时功能的按钮 - 不是所有的手表都有这些功能。 表冠 - 大多数人都很熟悉这个旋钮，用它可以转动手表的主弹簧，或者改变设置。在大多数手表上，这个旋钮在3点的位置。你可能也听说这个部位表被称为STERN（斯特恩）。 刻度条 - 许多手表没有实际的时间数字，而使用方形或圆形的标志来指示时间，这就是刻度条。 子表盘 - 有些表盘上会有圆形的小表盘，用来指示不同的时间。